Hi guys. I am trying to buy a 3d printer for someone willing to create stuff anywhere from small PC enclosure for a radpberry PI to say awesome stands for monitors or appliances. I dont want to build outrageously big stuff but i need something beginner friendly in a cheaper side of budget (maybe 500€/$?) what would you recommend?

Edit: i am looking for the biggest dimension possible so say 300x300 dimension… i am not sure if its the biggest possible even. I read about sovol (i also like generally open source / ageless, i dont mind tinkering or learning) —

Wanted features:

300x300 dimension Open source? Maybe? Multi coloring but without much hassle

Im a noob in all this so i dont know about the latest and best features.

  • 𝒍𝒆𝒎𝒂𝒏𝒏@lemmy.dbzer0.comEnglish
    12·
    10 months ago

    I’d suggest something with auto bed levelling at a minimum.

    For a “just works” experience, you could consider the Bambulab A1 (not the Mini), although it is a proprietary design and only just exceeds the 500€/$ budget. At an additional cost, you can purchase the “AMS” which allows printing in 4 different colours.

    Alternatively there’s the Creality ender 3 v3 SE and KE editions which come in at about half your budget. These use a pretty common 3D printer design and it’s fairly cheap to get spare parts or upgrades if desired. If going this route, I would personally lean towards the “KE” because it uses the open source Klipper firmware

    There are a lot of Ender models available, please be cautious of the older ones and the cheap ones on Amazon as they are not the same thing - most of those have manual bed levelling and hit-or-miss quality control, which can make printing a little bit of a pain out-of-the-box for a beginner IMO…

    As for me personally, I got my first 3D printer secondhand for the equivalent of €100 - it’s a Delta style printer by FLSun and works great for me, however I did binge hours of 3D printing videos to familiarize myself with things just in-case the used printer arrived broken (thankfully it didn’t, it printed fine OOTB!)

    • Haha@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      3·
      10 months ago

      Thanks a ton for that response, that K3 seems actually pretty good, i have no idea what good features are / should be, but i trust it is modern and works. One question does it have auto calibration? I read some are manual… would it do multi color / could i upgrade towards it? I prefer being able to do that rather than order and wait again…. How does it compare to the sovol i heard a lot about?

      And the software. Can i customise it / control it through my homelab?

      • 𝒍𝒆𝒎𝒂𝒏𝒏@lemmy.dbzer0.comEnglish
        1·
        10 months ago

        It can be upgraded to do multi color, but it wouldn’t be as seamless as the Bambu sadly.

        From some quick research, while the Sovol SV06 and Ender v3 KE have auto calibration, the Sovol requires you to set the z-offset (just once, in one location) after auto bed levelling has completed. However the Ender v3 KE is fully automatic and does not require any kind of user input after the auto levelling has completed

        The printers that run open source Klipper firmware, like the Sovol SV06 and Ender v3 KE, can be customized and controlled through your homelab network out-of-the-box. I’m not too familiar if the same is possible for the Bambu - I’m aware you can control it via their mobile app and slicer software, but you won’t have the option of configuring more advanced settings that would be possible on a Klipper-based printer.

        • Haha@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
          2·
          10 months ago

          Thanks so much that was very informative! You all helped so much, i am grateful

  • TH1NKTHRICE@lemmy.caEnglish
    9·
    10 months ago

    I was completely naive to 3D printing 6 months ago, got a Prusa mini, got printing. Pretty simple. Great explainers on the prusa website. Easy installation and intuitive software. I recommend it.

    • thegreekgeek@midwest.socialEnglish
      1·
      10 months ago

      Yeah I got the CR-10v2 (basically a rebranded CR-10s) and it’s been pretty solid. The (latest?) CR-10 SE looks quite nice with linear rails on the X and Y axes, input shaping, auto bed leveling and a direct drive extruder; though the build area isn’t quite as big as the original at 220mm².

      • sun_is_ra@sh.itjust.worksEnglish
        2·
        10 months ago

        I didn’t need to fiddle with anything to make it work. Assembly was easy and it worked out of the box. The only change I made was replacing the glass bed with a mirror of same size as it was recommended by many youtubers

          • sun_is_ra@sh.itjust.worksEnglish
            2·
            10 months ago

            u want surface that is very very flat because any minor bumps even if not visible would impact build quality.

            mirrors tend to be very flat because minor bumps would distort the reflected picture so its a safer bet.

  • Aarrodri@lemmy.worldEnglish
    6·
    10 months ago

    I have owned 6 different printers over several years. Nothing comes close to bambu nowadays. It’s the closest to a consumer product currently. A1 is a great workhorse and worth the slightly above 500. Id the mini has enough built volume then that one. If you want to tinker with the printer a bit then go with some of the alternatives mentioned here.

    • ArtVandelay@lemmy.worldEnglish
      41·
      10 months ago

      And if you value open source and transparency, as an alternative I would recommend Prusa. To be perfectly clear, that’s not a diss at bambulabs, they make a great printer. It’s just a very walled garden approach.

  • the16bitgamer@lemmy.worldEnglish
    5·
    10 months ago

    A 3d printer is a tool, and in my opinion you should get a cheap tool before dropping good money on a proper one. That way you’ll know if you need the 300mm bed, or direct drive extruder and silent stepper drivers, with an enclosure.

    However when you are looking for a cheap printer, I’d try to get one with auto bed leveling, since all the good printers have one, and manual bed leveling suck with no reward at the end.

    Ender3v2/3 is a good starting point. Lots of parts online, and YouTube tutorials and guides for how to get it to work. FlashForge is another.

    When you wanna throw it out a window, Prusa is my goto, though BambuLabs is getting some clout from their marketing push. I have personal gripes about them, but so far they seem legit.

    • Bartsbigbugbag@lemmy.mlEnglish
      3·
      10 months ago

      I feel the opposite. Cheap tools often are missing many of the QOL features that make learning a new tool enjoyable. Pick up an old 80s style hollow tip soldering iron to learn and you’re just going to think soldering is difficult. Pick up a modern self contained heating element iron, and you’ll spend a lot less time wondering, “am I doing this wrong, why isn’t it melting?”

      Similarly, if you intend to use a 3d printer as a tool, you’re not going to want to spend the requisite dozens of hours of tuning and part swapping to get a solid running Ender 3. Buy a decent tool and spend your time learning how to use it, buy a cheap tool and spend your time learning to work around it.

    • ToriborAEnglish
      1·
      10 months ago

      Could not have said it better myself.

      I learned so much with my first printer (CR-10). It was fiddly though and took a bit of tweaking each time to get a good first layer. Now I have a Prusa and it is so reliable that I almost miss the tinkering sometimes. I’ll regularly start prints while I’m out of the house and can come home to perfect prints with no hassle. They are an expensive way to enter the hobby if you aren’t sure what you want or how much you’ll use it.

      One of these days I’ll splurge on a Prusa XL. That thing is cool as hell.

  • JoShmoe@ani.socialEnglish
    5·
    10 months ago

    Do you want am easy start or a cheaper start? You’ll learn more with something like a cz-300 but you’ll have an easier time with a prusa or bambu.

    • Haha@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      2·
      10 months ago

      I think a cheaper start. I don’t mind things being a little tough. Unless the “easy start” is just 50-100 more but with same features. However if i can control a device from an open source app i vastly prefer that.

      • JoShmoe@ani.socialEnglish
        1·
        10 months ago

        As I said, a cz-300. Its as basic as FDM printing gets. Its time consuming. Zero automation, except for the printing. You will learn all the mechanics you might not be able to using the newer printers. I will sell you mine for $150.

        • Haha@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
          1·
          10 months ago

          Hey sorry i didn’t get back at you over it, i slept over 20h and felt totally sick.

          i’d love to take it off you, how long have you had it? Is it in good condition? Does it have upgrades on it or would i need to buy a few? I don’t mind to talk on discord or something.

          • JoShmoe@ani.socialEnglish
            1·
            10 months ago

            It needs two parts. A ptfe tube fitting connector, and an SD card.

            Other than that its in good condition. However I have no idea how to switch out the nozzle without replacing the whole hotend. The nozzle is a little beat up, but works fine.

            If you send me an invite to a discord server I can share photos. I don’t feel comfortable posting my dm contact here.

  • Nate Cox@programming.devEnglish
    31·
    10 months ago

    The Bambu A1 (mini or full size) may be a good fit for you. Price point is there or below if you opt out of the multi color unit, and they are remarkably beginner friendly.

    • Haha@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      1·
      10 months ago

      I didnt know i would want multi color so i will add that ob my list of wanted featuresz :) this looks pretty small the a1, would you know of something with bigger dimensions?

      • Nate Cox@programming.devEnglish
        41·
        10 months ago

        The A1 is 256x256x256, which is pretty generous for an out of the box printer.

        I personally use a Bambu P1S which has the same volume, and is larger than the Prusa MK3S I upgraded from.

        The A1S is definitely smaller but still capable. I started on a Prusa Mini which is similarly sized and it worked great for me for a year or so before I upgraded.

        Edit: I honestly would not start with a multi color unit. Wait a year and get some print experience under you first before you add that extra complexity.

      • EmilieEvans@lemmy.mlEnglish
        1·
        10 months ago

        Sadly no so 256x256mm it is.

        With multi-material that just works maybe the Prusa XL is the lowest cost option with at least 300x300mm but that’s $4’000.

        The next best option would be an ERCF with any 3d-printer that supports it (e.g. Klipper firmware).

        There is also Mosaic Palette 3 but this is $500 alone.

  • IMALlama@lemmy.worldEnglish
    2·
    10 months ago

    If you’re leaning towards the budget end of the spectrum, a Sovol SV06 isn’t a bad choice. I ran a cheap and cheerful printer for 5 years or so before upgrading and it served me well. It also printed parts for its eventual replacement.