https://github.com/DavidBuchanan314/DeCENC
Here is the tool for the interested.
https://github.com/DavidBuchanan314/DeCENC
Here is the tool for the interested.
If they want to hide that, why not just not print it on the box?
A lot of companies buy it so their employees have acres to it. Like Microsoft 365 copilot for example
To play online, yes. Has been like that for a loooong time on PS
I wouldn’t know. All I am saying is that Syncthing would not work for this purpose.
Syncthing works on a file level basis. If files are changed on both devices at the same time, it will have sync conflicts.
I don’t think that is illegal now. As you are technically not an insider
Dude. Did you even read what I wrote? PNG is bad for photos. Your example is a photo. Go ahead and try the same with a screenshot with text and menus showing.
We can ask the same the other way around: why do you want to use jpg if it results in a bigger size and worse quality than png?
JPEG for graphics like screenshots is not very efficient. For stuff like that, png is simply superior. (But not with compression 0)
PNG is not good for photos though.
Why 0 compression?
What format are you saving them in? BMP? Try png.
Maybe you didn’t raise it enough? It is definitely the sign of being too close to the bed.
There is no shortage on frontend alternatives for PC… but somehow I have yet to find anything worth mentioning for iOS
Thanks!
I have done something similar by purposefully adding patterns on the bottom of a 3D model.
Ok, let’s look into it. (you can also send me your printer.cfg if you want) The Mini e3 v3 has the following switchable outputs:
Keep in mind that they all switch ground only. 24V is always there.
You can use all of them for whatever you want, Klipper is very flexible here. HB is your heated bed, no questions here. E0 should be connected to your Hotted board HE0. I don’t know which of the fans on your board does what, you may need to connect them all and see which one does what (I guess your hotend does not have 3 fans). in the end you want [hotend_fan] to be the one calling the hotend (not the part!). the [fan] will be controlled by the slicer (overhangs, bridges and so on).
DCIN on your board should ideally be connected directly to the PSU, you do not want it to be switched.
don’t worry, we will get you back printing.
Glad to be of help!
The FAN1 in this case can not be controlled by software. It will always be on as soon as the printer is powered.
Then suddenly all VPN providers will be „commercial“.
+1 for zotify. I simply created a burner account for it, because it works fine with a free account. But I never had any issues with it.