I am looking to buy a 3D printer which will be used in my small business size of about 20 people. We sometimes need little parts made for holding littles pieces of equipment and after seeing a similar lab to us use 3D Printing to make little holders for their antennas, we are looking at buying one ourselves.
What can you guys recommend? So far I have seen this video which suggests the Bambulab P1P, or the Prusa mk3S+ Kit.
I think we will most likely buy the Bambulab P1P as this guy suggests. However he did say that its not great for fixing. “Fixing or replacing parts does not appear to be anywhere near as user friendly or even possible in some cases”
How hard is it to build the Prusa mk3S+ Kit yourself in case we decide we want to have the Prusa given it is more easily fixable? We would prefer the Bambulab as it prints faster and is slightly larger, but might not get it due to the fact its not as easy to fix stuff.
Bambulab might depend on proprietary/custom parts if you need to repair it, but as far as I’ve seen these are fairly priced. There’s of course no guarantee that prices won’t go up in the future. Hopefully you won’t have to fix it very often though. Unless you have a cheap 3d printer that self-destructs, I think the most common thing you have to “fix” is replacing the nozzle when those wear out. But it sounds like you’re only going to use the printer occasionally so this shouldn’t happen very often unless you’re printing abrasive filaments. Based on what I’ve seen it appears to be somewhat of an advanced procedure to swap nozzles on the P1P so maybe it’s more cost effective for you to replace the entire hotend when it’s time for that.
Prusa has exceptionally good support, with 24/7 chat available in multiple languages, which might be extra valuable to a business. I believe the MK3S uses standard nozzles which are easy to change, though it is possible to screw it up and clog the printer so don’t let untrained employees do it :)
Any particular reason you’re looking at MK3S+ rather than an MK4 btw? And since I mentioned nozzles for the other options, the MK4 is using non-standard nozzles just like the P1P. The Prusa nozzles are almost as expensive but look easier to change, and unlike the standard nozzles the MK3 (and most other printers) use they should be close to idiot proof.
Prusa so far is uncontested when it comes to the whole package. Also, if you need only small parts, I recommend Prusa Mini, it’s inexpensive and great. And you can buy 2 for the price of the mk3. Unless you see yourself printing parts larger than 18 cm (in any dimension), Prusa Mini might be the one for you.
I would go with an Ender 3 variant as they are very popular and community support for them will be plentiful. Also, spare parts will be easy to get. Then once you get past the beginner stage you can spring for a P1P or Prusa.
I’d recommend the prusa. Easy to get help official or otherwise, generally just works, easily fixable with easily acquired parts in most parts of the world.
Bambu is excellent until you have any problem then it’s about as annoying as constantly modifying and never actually using an ender 3
Yeah the fact you can’t fix it as easily makes me a bit worried about Bambu but others have said they are pretty reliable
I have have had a Bambu X1C since probably February or so and I have printed hundreds of prints at this point and it has been really reliable, basically set it and forget it at this point. I have printed PLA, Nylon, PETG, TPU, wood and metal fill, carbon nylon and PLA and all of the prints are excellent quality, no complaints.
For what it’s worth, it’s actually easy to fix and take apart, they have an excellent wiki as well. They also sell most of the parts so you can just buy them if needed, I have purchased probably 5 or 6 hot end assemblies over the time I have had the printer and they are really easy to swap. I have only had one fan die and they replaced it no questions asked and it took like 10 min to install only because I didn’t ready the directions haha.
I also have a modified Prusa mk3s+ that I use sometimes but these days it’s half as fast and I spent twice the time messing with it over the Bambu, it just works and cranks out prints. The hotnends are really easy to swap on the Bambu too, way easier than the Prusa, even with a revo hotend.
No matter which you choose though, definitely recommend OrcaSlicer for the Bambu and the Mk3s.
ETA: to sum it up I guess I would say if your interest in the hobby is in the things you want to make, get a Bambu. If it is more about tuning and modding and optimizing a printer get a Prusa. That’s my 2c at least.
Thanks. I think we will go for the Bambu P1S looks like. What is an orcaslicer? Also do you know can you print metal on the Bambu?
OrcaSlicer is a slicer program: a piece of software that turns a 3D model into a series of commands for the printer. Its main competition would be PrusaSlicer (which is not limited to Prusa printers) and Cura.
As for metal printing, it looks like Bambu makes a special faux-metal filament (looks like but isn’t metal). Other than that, it can probably print the same metal-infused PLA filaments as any other 3D printer.
So to run the Bambulab I have to use my own 3d modelling and then a slicer?
Also I dont really get metal filament. People say you can get a metal-plastic filament and after you’ve modelled it you melt away all the plastic. Wouldnt that require the metal to be melted ? (2000+ degrees celsius)
Well, you can also download models from a number of websites rather than creating them yourself (Thingiverse is probably the largest and most mature site; there’s also Printables, Cults3D, MyMiniFactory, and a few others). A slicer is kind of required, yes; my printer shipped with get-started software that included a slicer, but it isn’t a Bambu and I have no idea what that company might provide.
As for the plastic/metal filaments, It’s Complicated. I’ve seen one variety that invites you to send the printed pieces back to the filament’s manufacturer, who will then anneal it for you in an industrial furnace that can probably get hot enough to melt bronze, copper, or iron (~1200C for iron, ~1000C for the other two—very few metals need a full 2000C!). Tin should melt, or at least soften, in an ordinary stove (<250C melting point), so you could successfully melt a tin-filled filament at home. And melting most of the plastic out while leaving behind just enough to act as glue can be done in theory. However, many metal-filled filaments are not intended to be annealed ( Here’s a product page for FormFutura copper-filled filament—you’ll note that the post-processing suggestions do not include melting out the plastic). These types are more “for the looks”.
If you’re looking to print physically strong parts, you may be better off working with PC or nylon than trying to get metal out of an additive printer. Full-strength metal parts are best produced by a subtractive process, for example on a CNC machine.
Thanks for the info. Yeah I dont think we will be printing anything with metal. I just heard theres some process that does that but I am not sure how that would work
So… I just bought a p1p and it’s just about the best decision I could have made when it came to this hobby. The thing just freaking works, and it works well. I don’t think I have a single complaint about mine.
That being said, they just released a p1s model. This is basically the p1p but enclosed so you can print more difficult materials like ABS. It also allows you to buy a combo with the AMS system that will let you print 4 colors at once for much cheaper than if you bought them both separately.
I really wanted to go with the open source prusa printer, but honestly at the price point I just could not justify it. The p1p is just as fast if not faster. Just as reliable. And actually shipped fully featured, for cheaper than even a mk3s+ kit. It’s really the no brainer option at that price point if you can get over it being closed source.
